Bolognese sauce
Notes from Marcella
- The meat should not be from too lean a cut; the more marbled it is, the sweeter the sauce will be. The neck portion of the chuck works well.
- Add salt immediately when sauteing the meat to extract its juices for the subsequent benefit of the sauce.
- Cook the meat in milk before adding wine and tomatoes to protect it from the acidic bite of the latter.
- Do not use a demiglace or other concentrates that tip the balance of flavors toward harshness.
- Use a pot that retains heat. Earthenware is preferred in Bologna and bot most cooks in Emilia-Romagna, but enameled cast-iron pans or a pot whose heavy bottom is composed of layers of steel allows are fully satisfactory.
- Cook, uncovered, at the merest simmer for a long, long time; no less than 3 hours is necessary. More is better.
- 15 g Vegetable Oil
- 40 g Unsalted Butter
- 110 g Onion, chopped
- 110 g Celery, chopped
- 110 g Carrot, chopped
- 330 g Ground Beef
- 1 t Medium-Grain Salt
- 1/2 t Black Peppercorn, ground
- 240 g Whole Milk
- 1 pinch Nutmeg
- 240 g Dry White Wine
- 360 g Tomatoes, peeled, crushed
- Sweat vegetables. Cook onion in butter and oil over medium heat until translucent. Stir in celery, carrot. Cook 2 minutes.
- Brown beef. Stir in beef, salt, black pepper. Cook until beef has lost its raw, red color.
- Build sauce. Stir in milk. Reduce 40-50 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in wine. Reduce 40-50 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in tomatoes. Simmer until sauce begins to bubble. Reduce heat to a very low simmer.
- Simmer, uncovered, 3-6 hours, stirring as needed.
Be very careful not to burn the milk solids.
If the sauce begins to dry out and stick, add 100 g Water.
At the end, no water at all must be left and the fat must separate from the sauce.
Serve with fettuccine, rigatoni, conchiglie, or fusilli.
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Hazan, Marcella, and Karin Kretschmann. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. New York, NY: Alfred A. Knopf, 1992. ↩